Peace & War

Since it's founding as an important Orthodox cave monastery in 1015, the Kiev Pechersk Lavra (literally, Monastery of the Caves) is one of the most important and visually impressive sights in Ukraine, making both the coveted UNESCO World Heritage list, and the slightly comic Seven Wonders of Ukraine:

The complex consists of an upper and lower system which contain numerous architectural monuments, churches, and an underground cave system housing the visible mummified remains of over 100 saints visited by pilgrims and tourists alike. Walking by candlelight through teeny, underground caverns and stale air to see the withered hands of holy men of yore is a pretty cool experience indeed.

The churches' golden domes stretching into the brilliantly blue sky is always such a pretty sight.

In preparation for Easter, quite a few pysanka (decorated eggs) were on display as well:

Around every corner are long-bearded and long-robed monks, young women and old ladies making the sign of the cross, and glistening, gilded flickers of gold:

Some of the 11th century frescos from inside the Trinity Gate Church:

It's easy to get church-overdose here in Orthodox Ukraine, but the UNESCO sights never disappoint, and I definitely recommend this golden complex if you find yourself in Kiev.

From the Pechersk Lavra (and from most points in Kiev as well), you can spot a grand Liberty-esque monument imposing in the distance:

It's the huge Rodina Mat (Mother of the Motherland) statue, also lovingly referred to as "Tin Tits," which marks the entrance to the (very Soviet) National Museum of the History of the Great Patriotic War (known as WWII to you and me):

All around this great gallivanted dame are monuments to Ukrainian (Russian) workers and heros of the war, as well as glorified relics of its bloody past. Throw in about two dozen speakers throughout the grounds blaring patriotic songs from the 30s and 40s, and you have the perfect soundtrack for retro propaganda at its finest!

The "heroic national defense of Ukraine," in my opinion, could be portrayed in no other way! It's actually quite interesting, as an American, to learn about the actions and consequences of WWII through a former-Soviet point of view, and to realize the impact it had (and still has) on the people of Ukraine. Us Westerners tend not to learn so much about how Ukraine suffered at the hands of Nazis trying to march their way to Moscow!

In any case, with a booming lady swinging 12 tons of sword and shield over you, it's hard to not muster up at least a little appreciation for the efforts of this museum.

From golden domes to Soviet glory, Kiev's west bank of the Dnipro River is a good place to delve a little into the heart of Ukraine's capital.

Winter Vacation, Part IV: Kiev and Lviv, Ukraine

If you missed it, click to read part I, part II, and part III of our winter vacation (in Germany)!

Flying into Ukraine from Germany, I think, took a bit of getting used to for Jacob; it's hard to fully prepare yourself for what it's like to be in an Eastern block country!

After all of our travels around Germany, we were actually happy to have quite a bit of downtime in Kiev. We were fortunate to be able to stay in a friend's apartment and cat-sit while she was back home in the States, and we felt like royal diplomats!

The best part was having a nice kitchen where we Jacob could make us some tasty homemade meals such as enchiladas and pizza (okay, I did make us some borscht and deruny, so no one can say I didn't contribute!)

Kiev had its own Christmas market set up this year, and the downtown was lit up more than ever before (according to a few local friends). It wasn't Germany, but it was quite nice nevertheless:

I took Jacob on a walk around the city on the one day that we had blue skies. Other than that, we really didn't do much sightseeing, but there was quite a bit of 3rd Rock From the Sun watching and general relaxing done instead! Blissful!

New Year's is the biggest celebrated holiday in Ukraine (a hold-over from Soviet days), and I wanted to make sure we were downtown for the festivities. Unfortunately, I wasn't feeling the best, but forced myself out the door anyway. I blame the sickness for wishing everyone a "Happy New Year 2002" in the video below.

Back in October, I took in all of the sights, sounds, and tastes of the city of Lviv (seen here and here) and thought it was a wonderful city to add to our journey, so after our time in Kiev, we took the overnight train there. Jacob was impressed. No, really. He was expecting a lot worse than this:

First morning stop in Lviv was for espresso and advocaat (brandy mixed with sugar and egg...tasty!):

Going to Lviv was like starting the holidays all over again. In Ukraine, Russian Orthodox Christmas is celebrated, and that celebration takes place on the 6th and 7th of January. Because of this, the city was bustling and festive with the holiday spirit!

Yet another Christmas market! I think I'm up to #6 by now (Best. Christmas. Ever!)

Even in Ukraine they know that you can't have a Christmas market without hot, spiced wine:

But, this definitely wasn't Germany! The wares for sale were a little...different:

This sign advertising bread for sale is made entirely of bread!

Nighttime was just as lovely:

Oh really, Ukraine? Then how do you explain the McDonalds ALWAYS being packed to the max!? Hang on there, borscht!

Speaking of food, we had some delicious meals...

...and visited some of Lviv's most quirky cafes and restaurants (which I cover in more detail here); this one, named дiм легенд (House of Legends) has many stories and rooms dedicated entirely to different aspects of the city of Lviv. In fact, the menu that you're presented with is actually a map of the place as well! On the roof-top are some crazy sculptures, a chimney to crawl up in, and a paddle-powered car! Entertaining to say the least (I guess 'cause the food's nothing to write home about):

And we also ate in the password-only-accessable Bunker, and this time I had a good partner to participate in all of the props:

One of the sweetest dining memories was at a brewery (where else) where we were serenaded with a little Yesterday. My kind of relaxing entertainment:

During the Christmas season here, groups of people go from restaurant to restaurant performing a kind of short Christmas pageant for donations to the church. We assumed that it was some kind of Bible story as every one we saw had an angel, a devil, and a couple of kings. However, they also had a Jewish rabbi and what appeared to be a pirate, so who knows (come to think of it, I guess that's still probably Bible-related...crazy kids!)

From Lviv, we took another train south to Kolomiya, gateway to the Carpathian mountains. While the destination was desirable, the toilets on the 3rd-class train car most definitely were not (alas, it was all we could book at this time of year)! I keep waiting for the day when we're too old to put up with stuff like that; so far it looks like we're still hanging on for the adventure!