Vodka & Valentine's

What could have been a lonely and husband-longing Valentine's Day this year instead became a fun pot-luck fest with a fabulous group of Ukrainian ladies:

We had meats, salads, cheeses, chocolates, fruit, pastries, cake, and of course, booze:

I was even wrapped up in my first full-fur covering to give "fitting in with the locals" a go:

As far as greeting card holidays go, this was definitely one of the tastiest ones yet...

McToasty

I'm just going to come right out and say it: This post is about McDonalds.

I already mentioned how cold it's been in Ukraine for the past few weeks. Like so cold that school and work's been cancelled for a few weeks now. Like so cold that it takes me 20 minutes to layer up to go outside (three scarves, two hats, silk long johns under clothing, knee-length coat, knee-high leather boots...sheesh, I totally get now why everyone here just forgets all of that and wears fur!).

It's cold enough that, instead of walking 15 minutes to the grocery store in order to prepare food in my refrigerator of a kitchen, more than a few times I've opted for the 5 minute walk to the warm and cozy McDonald's.

Yes, McDonald's. Warm and Cozy. As everything else in this country seems just barely heated (or not heated at all), it seems that the bulk of Russia's gas rations here in Lugansk have ended up at our Micky Ds.

The best part of this whole seemingly cultural-dilution of an endeavor is that, just like in Japan, Ukraine has some unique offerings that you can't get anywhere else. Okay, it's still McDonald's food, but it's Ukraine Week (actually lasting for 2 months) McDonald's food!

Three notable features from the Ukraine McDonald's Ukraine Week website: 1) "This menu invites the taste of Ukrainian colors...and all fans of Ukrainian culinary traditions have a great opportunity to discover new facets of your favorite flavors" (Google translate really rocked that one!); 2) They are offering such delights as crispy potato wedges with Ukrainian sauce, crispy cheese rings with ham and Ukrainian sauce, and sandwich "lordy" on rye buns with bacon and Ukrainian sauce; and 3) No one is really sure what exactly "Ukrainian sauce" is.

Sounds good to me!

I went with the cheese rings and the rye sandwich. Turns out, I had to pay extra for the Ukrainian sauce...we definitely take our free condiments for granted back home:

Apologies to anyone coming here to get a glimpse into to the heart and soul of Ukraine's culture only to read about McDonalds, but that baby's ALWAYS packed here in Lugansk! Anyone who's going to offer me free heat and Ukrainian-sauced goodies at the most jumping place in town is just as deserving with a spot on the 'ol travel blog.

Colder Than Cold

The past few weeks here in Ukraine have been the coldest of my life.

When I think it can't get any colder, it does.

(all temps in Farenheit to appease my American peeps)

Apparently, Eastern Europe (and much of Western Europe) is going through a crazy cold spell at the moment. People are dying. Government-controlled heat is failing, Tea and coffee are being consumed by the gallons. Just walking outside for 2-minutes gives me a terrible non-ice-cream-induced brain freeze.

And, to top it all off, we haven't had school or work for the past two weeks due to lack of heating at the university! I haven't really been to work since December 16 and I'm starting to get antsy (I NEVER thought I'd say that about extended periods of vacation)!

Here's hoping that this cold snap SNAPS out of it soon...

31 Years

Yesterday, on what was perhaps the coldest birthday of my life, I turned 31 years old!

I have to say, it was one of the most low-key birthdays I've had in quite awhile (especially in comparison to my mega-30th 1980s theme party last year in Japan). My co-workers originally had a birthday lunch-fest planned at the department, but school is still cancelled due to the terrible temperatures. The day, however, was not without some sweet birthday lovelies, including this name-sake banner made by my Access English Program high school students:

In the evening, as an homage to my former living arrangement, I met a few friends at the Japanese restaurant downtown for sushi and drinks! A Japanese dinner in Ukraine with Ukrainian and American company...talk about internationalization!

One of the best birthday gifts of the evening, my very own ushanka hat to ward of the bitter, bitter cold:

I also received some other goodies, such as a Russian book of poetry, some tasty spices, and a scarf broach:

To celebrate in style, I had a lovely goma kombu (sesame and seaweed) salad, along with the Crazy Dragon sushi roll! Yummers!

And, as I couldn't pass up an opportunity to compliment my dessert to my main dish, the Black Dragon had to make an appearance as well:

Cold-tested and American-approved:

I love the saying, "Never regret getting older. It is an opportunity denied to many." What better reason do you need to make sure there's always room for a little (or a lot of) celebrating on birthdays! While I desperately miss having my husband and good old friends around for the day, it's nice to know that there are new friends and experiences to help make the day more than ordinary!

Thanks to all who sent cards (Mom, Dad, and Carissa), left messages, and passed good thoughts and vibes my way! Here's to another fabulous year in my 30s!

Istanbul, Turkey--Part II

You can read part I of Istanbul here.

Have I mentioned the amazing eating in Turkey? Yes? Well, then let me drone on a little more about such dishes as manti (kind of a Turkish ravioli stuffed with spiced lamb and covered in yogurt, chili, and garlic), firinda sutlac (baked rice pudding), fresh oranges and pomegranates, and the most insanely sweet desserts ever (and more than just bakalava at that)!

Fueled up in delicious Turkish style is the best way to take in the sights of downtown Istanbul.

Situated across the way from the grandiose Hagia Sophia is Sultan Ahmed Mosque, commonly known as The Blue Mosque (due to its more than 20,000 handmade tiles that adorn the inside). This beautiful mosque was built in 1609 with intentions of rivaling the beauty and splendor of nearby Hagia Sophia. Walking by the men washing their feet in preparation for prayer, I have to say that this is the first mosque I've ever visited, and it was definitely a breathtaking affair:

My first day and evening in Istanbul were sunshiny, clear-sky perfection:

The next day, however, looked like this:

In what has proven itself to be quite the frozen chill covering Europe (we're still out of school here in Ukraine due to lack of heat as I type this), Istanbul's snowy, chilly weather defied any stereotype I've ever held about weather in this country! At least I had more reasons to up my creamy, spicy, hot salep intake:

And it's a good thing that so many of Istanbul's wonderful markets are inside. This is the Spice Bazaar, one of Turkey's oldest markets (although the "newer" building that it's now housed in dates to 1660). The Spice Bazaar is such a delight to wander though. Mingling smells of sculpted spice-pyramids, dried fruits and herbs, candied fruits, oils and extracts, and other goodies dance around shop-keepers' touts, and tourists with cameras. Perfect way to spend a snowy day:

And, you know, it wouldn't be a proper send-off from me without yet another ode to my favorite Turkish treat:

After my whirlwind, snow days in Istanbul, it was off to the below freezing temperatures of Eastern Europe back in Ukraine! I loved getting a little sampling of this amazing country in anticipation of so many things for which to go back! And I'm not only talking about bakalava...