Sunday, September 25, 2011

Around My Hood

Week three for me in Ukraine, and the unfamiliar is finally really giving way to "home, sweet, home" (which, I guess for a gal who doesn't really have a permanent home anywhere else at the moment anyway, that isn't such a feat)! My home now is located on the fringes of the city (which I'm no stranger to...it's just like when we were living in Sapporo, Japan), so there's a bit of a different vibe than in downtown Lugansk, which has become more of a weekend or occasional weeknight excursion; my daily reality takes place in my rockin' neighborhood instead:


I live in what can only be described as an "apartment commune," which seems to be the housing choice of preference. In these little concrete biospheres there exists perhaps 4 to 6 large apartment complexes. In front of each one are usually little parks of well-worn, heavy-metal equipment for kids to play (fight?) within eye-sight of their babushkas, fire-pits and BBQs for light grilling, an array of laundry lines, wildflowers amidst little gardens and overgrowth, benches with gossiping grannies and beer-drinking gramps, and lots of well-worn dirt paths connecting all of this hoopla together:








As you venture out of my quiet community and up onto the main street, the pulse of the area can really be seen...and felt, especially if you're not careful crossing the street (even on green...it's a walking jungle out there!). See all of those old-skool wires in the sky? They're for the electric buses and trams:



Of course, the best way to get around is on the super cheap marshrutki, which are somewhere between a mini-bus and a large van. You hop on the number that you want, and then yell out to the driver when you want to get off...easy peasy:


Marshrutki stop near my place:


There seems to be a pretty huge grocery store and a good-sized outdoor market on almost every block around here (mine in particular is pretty awesome), but incase you can't be bothered with all of that pomp and circumstance, there are a ton of snack shacks and little huts selling everything from beers and cigs to pizza, coffee, and ice cream. The sheer number of them can be compared to all of the Lawsons and 7-Elevens in Japan; or payday loan shops in America:



And if you need to add minutes to your cell phone, it's not terribly difficult to find out where to go...



The most happening place in the neighborhood is, without a doubt, the newly built Mickey Ds. It is the one and only McDonalds in all of Lugansk, and I am told that the city nearly had a holiday the day it was opened:


The Wi-Fi advertised on the sign is a big, fat lie, however:


Right next to the Mac, and about an 8-minute walk from my house, is the Volodymyr Dahl East Ukrainian National University, aka my place of work:


Built in the 1920s as a mechanical college and used heavily during Soviet times, the campus buildings themselves definitely show their wear and age, as does the track (which pales in comparison to the new flashy apartment buildings built behind it):


Nevertheless, there are some good, rocky running trails circling the track, which I have found myself on almost every night since I've been here. The sunset-view from here is drop-dead gorgeous as well, even rivaling those pretty prairie sunsets that I love back in Kansas:


The university church: another site along my bumpy run:



It's nice living in an area where so many people always seem to be out and about on the streets, AND where there are shops dedicated entirely to meat and cheese:




Loving the retro Soviet-rides that seem to be everywhere. Quintessentially Eastern European/Russian:



But given the state of driving here, I think I'll just prefer to walk.


And that's the grandiose tour! Welcome to the neighborhood!

Thursday, September 22, 2011

Lunch Lady Land

One of the best parts of my working days during the week is heading to the university "canteen" for lunch:

(Apologies for the crap-tastic point-and-shoot pics...as soon as this was taken, the lunch ladies were all over me wanting to know what I was going to do with the photos and their reputations...I had to convince them that, yes, I really did like their food and, no, I wasn't some kind of American food spy)!

As Ukrainians don't really go out to eat much (unless it's ethnic food: pizza, Chinese, Japanese, Turkish, McDonald's, etc.) and usually have their grannies at home to prepare delicious and traditional Ukrainian dishes, eating at the canteen is the closest I've come to homemade Ukrainian food!

And, for between US $1.60-$2.50, I usually get a tray that looks like this:


The meal usually consists of a salad:



And ALWAYS includes borscht (hearty soup made with beet-roots) or some other soup (hot and cold varieties):



Along with a main and side dish (usually consisting of some kind of meat or fish, with potatoes, sauerkraut, macaroni, grilled veggies, etc.):



A choice of breads stuffed with sauerkraut, farmers cheese, or apples:


And a dessert (my favorite, syrnyky, a fried fitter made from farmers cheese and served with soured cream...just slightly sweet and oh so yummy):




I'm heading to Ukraine's capital of Kiev in a few weeks where I'll be sure to stock up on the Ukrainian cuisine photos to share with everyone! Until then, you'll find me and my friends down at the ol' canteen!

Saturday, September 17, 2011

St. Vladimir Cathedral

In an ever-increasing effort to get photos of my city before the gray of industrialized winter descends in a few months, I took advantage of the glorious Saturday weather today to journey to one of Lugansk's cathedrals, St. Vladimir's. From the looks of things, this is a fairly new-ish cathedral (the oldest surviving cathedral in Lugansk made it through the Soviet-era by becoming a theater...most others were destroyed), but nevertheless, still beautiful:









I love the mosaic works, especially since it means that people are still putting time and effort into large-scale undertakings of this beautiful art form: