Happy Halloween!

Halloween is always my most favorite time of the year. I absolutely love getting an amazing costume together with my husband and going out with fabulous friends. This year though, my celebrating was quite a bit different without either of those things in a country where Halloween is in its "early stages" to say the least!

My Halloweekend was not lost, however, as I got to help give two Halloween parties to 20 high school students each as a part of the Access America Program, which I help out with as a part of my project here. Access America gives 40 underprivileged students an opportunity to have extra English language classes and learn more about the United States, as well as to have special holiday and cultural activities with an American (that's me!). As this was everyone's first Halloween party EVER, it was quite a feat! We had costumes (the kids looked great!), games, decorations and prizes (thanks to a great gift box from my mom), music, and lots of candy! I did a presentation on Halloween traditions in the States, and everyone just had a blast!

So I think that if I can't celebrate Halloween by going all out (and by actually going out), then why not be a part of the movement to get more Halloween action going here in Ukraine!? Afterall, these kids are the future, right!

From the Eastern Block, Happy Halloween, everyone!

Puttin' On My Borscht Belt

I've been told that a hot, steamy bowl of borscht (or a cold version of it for the summertime) is the heart and soul of Ukrainian cooking and home-life (By the way, yes, borscht is originally Ukrainian). As I have of yet to eat a bad helping of borscht here in Ukraine (I love the stuff!), I decided to venture out and attempt to make a big batch of it on my own! When in Ukraine, right?

I began my borscht-making endeavor the same way any cook in Ukraine would, with a trip to the local outdoor market! Here, the outdoor market is the place to go for fresh, organic fruits and veggies usually from the seller's garden; the supermarkets' produce pales in comparison. Besides that, speaking with the babshukas about quantities and prices is good practice for my Russian! Once you have all of your ingredients, it's really a matter of cutting, chopping, peeling, boiling, and simmering!

And that's how I went from this:

...to this:

...and finally, to this! Traditionally, borscht is usually served with a big helping of сметана (Smetana), which is similar to soured cream:

And because I got a little overzealous and bought way too much produce at the market, I will now be feasting on borscht for both lunch and dinner ALL this week! I guess a little healthy, hearty soup eating now that the days are getting quite chilly will do me just fine. приыатного аппетита!

Quirky Culinary Quests in Lviv

While in Lviv, I discovered some really crazy places to eat. There's a cafe dedicated entirely to Leopold von Sacher-Masoch, the original freak who gives his namesake to "masochism" (and who hails from Lviv). Another cafe sits directly underneath the Opera House situated next to an underground river. There's a twisty maze restaurant a few stories tall dedicated entirely to lanterns and the invention of electric light. Still another was a seven story eclectic museum-like place in which each room was completely dedicated to an odd aspect of the city.

Two places in particular were especially fun (and are why I must apologize for the little point-and-shoot pics and its low-light capturing abilities). The first was Криївка (or Krivjka) meaning "bunker" in Ukrainian. The door to the restaurant is completely unmarked, and is in fact located inside one of the buildings on the old town square (which is also unmarked). Upon knocking on the door, a man opens the small peep-door and asks for the password.

"Слава Україні!" (Slava Ukraini..."Praise to Ukraine!") you yell, and he promptly lets you inside...

Once in, he demands to know if you're a Commie or a Comrade and, satisfied with your allegiance to independent Ukraine, gives you a shot of honey vodka and welcomes you to the bunker:

Almost on cue, a bookcase swings open and you head downstairs into the underground cave-like restaurant which is saturated in photos and memorabilia from the Ukrainian Liberation Army (who actually used this place as a hideout during WWII):

The menu is like an old, war-time newsletter :

While sipping on your Zenuk (live beer)...

...a wandering music group leads people in songs of independence and patriotism:

It's truly a fun place to grab a beer and a bite to eat! You can even watch the "outsiders" trying to get in at the front on the security t.v. downstairs. Awesome.

The second place is actually located in the same building, but on the eerily quiet second floor. Once again, it's unmarked, but we learned through word of mouth that we needed to knock on Apartment #8 (apparently this number changes from time to time to throw people off the scent):

When the door opens, you find yourself in a shoddy apartment kitchen being confronted by a man in a housecoat. Apparently you have intruded on his evening supper, and he's sure to let you know of this:

Once you're properly confused (and slightly apologetic), he points you to a door on the other side of the kitchen. Passing through, you enter into a fancy Masonic-themed restaurant which is a world away from a working class kitchen. The entire place is dedicated to famous Free Masons (Ben Franklin, Abe Lincoln, and Ol' Washington are given props) and anything dedicated to the movement:

The place has dubbed itself as The Most Expensive Galacian Restaurant ("Galacian" being the name of this part of Ukraine) and prices have just enough extra zeros to the end of them to make you think seriously about running back and taking refuge in the old man's kitchen (the garden pumpkin salad in the starters below is the equivalent of USD $25):

But have no fear! If you've scored a handy 90% off coupon from one of the other crazy restaurants in town (or plead with your waiter for the same treatment), you're all set (and can instead be entertained with the menu's crazy cornucopia of Masonic facts and figures):

The food and wine was great and the symbolic scratchings and figures on the walls were fun, but the literal highlight of the place just might be the commode, with its raised, candle-flanked toilet-throne:

Yes, you just haven't lived until you've eaten in Lviv.

City of Culture: Lviv, Part II

To see the first part of my lazy days in Lviv, click here.

Walking through the streets of Ukraine's darling town of Lviv, there are so many little surprises and quirky bits of character just waiting to be doted upon:

The 1897 Lviv Opera House:

One thing I especially love about traveling is the markets. They're so colorful and such a classic representation of local people at work and among their peers. Even the touristy markets offer a collection on the crafts, arts, and items that have been chosen to represent the people and their culture.

As a hold-over from Soviet days, Lviv is definitely a city of markets, no doubt. At the folk art and craft market, you can purchase anything from embroidery, wood carvings, and paintings, to thick furs and knitted wools, used cameras (I got myself a Soviet-era Kiev for USD$12.50!), matryoshkas, and brilliantly painted pysanka. It's a treat to walk through:

One of the most charming markets in Lviv is a vintage book market held in a little square that is overlooked by a huge statue of Ivan Fedorov, the man responsible for bringing printing to Russia and Ukraine. Faded typography and beautiful designs nestled in their old suitcases and benches really pull you out of the iGeneration of computers and mp3s and Kindles for a bit--it's marvelous:

There's even a few old records and odds and ins to bring a little quirkiness to the lot:

And, after a day of exploring and soaking in the captivating Lviv, one of the best parts of my visit was enjoying the gorgeous autumn evening light, making everything seem even more magical:

Jacob and I will be back to Lviv this January for the Orthodox Christmas markets, and I can't wait to see what kind of mood the city takes on a that time. As of now, Lviv doesn't enjoy the high-tourist traffic of such sister cities as Prague or Krakow, but with the co-hosting of the 2012 EuroCup Soccer championships happening soon, this best-kept secret in Europe just might be heading to the tour-package light. See it now, folks, before it's "out there."